Serie de cuchillos
Cuchillos por tipo de hoja
Otros surtidos
Specials
El Santoku es la forma tradicional japonesa de cuchillo de uso general, comparable con el cuchillo de cocinero europeo. El nombre de «las tres ventajas» se refiere a las posibilidades de aplicación universal para cortar pescado, carne y verduras.
La forma de hoja del Usuba corresponde a la de un cuchillo de verduras tradicional japonés y, por lo tanto, se utiliza principalmente para cortar verduras. A pesar de su forma de hacha, no es adecuado para cortar huesos.
El Yanagiba se considera un cuchillo de corte tradicional japonés. Debido a su hoja delgada y relativamente larga, afilada de forma cóncava por un solo lado, este cuchillo es particularmente adecuado para cortes muy finos. Este tipo de cuchillo garantiza un corte elegante y, sobre todo, limpio y suave. Estos cortes son especialmente importantes para la preparación de sushi. La longitud y la forma de la hoja permiten movimientos de corte largos.
El cuchillo Deba se utiliza en la cocina japonesa como cortante tradicional. Este cuchillo estable y pesado presenta una amplia hoja fuerte y está afilado solo por un lado. La parte frontal de la hoja se utiliza principalmente para filetear el pescado. La parte posterior de la hoja es más robusta y se utiliza, entre otras cosas, para cortar pequeños huesos de pollo y espinas.
se refiere al ensayo de dureza Rockwell con los procedimientos de la escala C, que se emplea principalmente para materiales muy duros. La dureza Rockwell de un material se obtiene con la profundidad de penetración de un objeto de ensayo (el diamante es el material más duro con un valor de referencia de 100 HRC).
Se caracteriza por su alto contenido en carbono, que le confiere una gran dureza y permite un afilado muy preciso. Los demás elementos aportan al acero más elasticidad y durabilidad, con lo que resiste mucho mejor la corrosión y al desgaste. De esta manera los cuchillos A(US)10 son menos propensos a oxidarse y necesitan menos afilado.
es un acero inoxidable resistente a la corrosión con un alto porcentaje de cromo y con un contenido medio de carbono.
es un acero desarrollado recientemente. Las hojas de este acero son muy resistentes a la corrosión gracias al alto contenido en cromo. Se trata de una clase de acero inoxidable puro. El mayor contenido de carbono aporta una mejora en la duración de la capacidad de corte.
Se trata de un acero japonés para cuchillos de comprobada eficacia, que oferce una combinación equilibrada de resistencia del filo y resistencia a la corrosión y de fàcil afilado. Es una excelente elección para quien busca un cuchillo con propiedades versátiles.
es un acero japonés que se caracteriza por su gran flexibilidad y resistencia. Gracias a su alto contenido en cromo, el acero de esta hoja es particularmente resistente a la corrosión y el desgaste.
No es una clase específica de madera, sino que se refiere a la lámina de madera impregnada compuesta de varias capas superpuestas con resinas de alta calidad, para hacer que la forma del mango sea estable y garantizar una resistencia duradera ante el contacto con la humedad y los alimentos.
Our collection of cutting boards and knife blocks is crafted exclusively from European wood species. We make sure that our raw materials are sourced from sustainable forestry. Besides first-class workmanship and a modern design, we consider this is an equally important aspect for the quality of your product. Kindly take note that wood is a ‘living’ material and that it will retain its natural properties, even after use.
Natural contents of wood, such as tannic acid and tannin, help prevent the formation of germs caused by food residues. Nevertheless, you should carefully clean and dry your cutting board or knife block after each use. Dirt can be removed with a damp cloth, followed by wiping dry. For more stubborn residues, vigorous scrubbing under warm running water with a little dish soap is effective. Afterwards, rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry completely. Never put cutting boards or knife blocks in the dishwasher or soak them in water. Instead, allow them to air dry thoroughly. Store wooden items in a way that allows air to circulate around them from all sides to prevent warping. Avoid drying wood products near radiators or ovens, as overly dry air can cause the wood fibers to crack.
Knives should only be stored in or on the knife block when they are completely clean and thoroughly dried. Oiled surfaces—such as cutting boards, chopping blocks, or knife blocks—should be regularly re-oiled. Our blade care set with Japanese camellia oil is ideal for this purpose. You can use it not only to care for your wooden cutting boards and knife blocks, but also for your knives (handle and blade).
You will enjoy using our products for many years to come if you observe these care instructions.
SK-S1
For a fine, even resharpening, the NEW EDGE knife sharpener is equipped with high-quality, Japanese ceramic-bonded sharpening and polishing stones. In two coordinated steps, the blade is pre-sharpened and polished – the predefined angle and guiding mechanism ensure precise and controlled use at all times. The combination of sharpening stages corresponds to a 2000 grit in the first step and a 4000 grit in the second step, making it ideal for resharpening and polishing Japanese double‑bevel kitchen knives.
In the first step (Step 1 / white ceramic unit), the blade is ground. Pull the knife evenly through the sharpener about ten times. A special feature of NEW EDGE ist, dass Sie die Klinge hin- und herführen können – ohne zusätzlichen Druck, nur mit dem Eigengewicht des Messers.
Then carefully check the sharpness of the edge – for example using a paper test or a cautious fingernail test.
In the second step (Step 2 / orange ceramic unit), the fine honing of the edge takes place. Again, pull the knife about ten times with only light pressure through the second guide back and forth to refine the sharpening pattern.
The leather strop, infused with 9µm diamond particles, allows stropping and polishing of the edge. This helps maintain an extremely fine, razor-sharp edge. While the sharpening stones are mainly used for more significant wear, the strop leather is ideal for regular blade maintenance.
To strop on leather, pull the knife backwards at a slightly flatter angle (approx. 12–13°) in slow and controlled movements across the leather. Light pressure with about 5–10 strokes per side is sufficient.
It is recommended to replace the ceramic stones of the sharpener after sharpening around 500 knives to ensure consistent performance.
Models: AP-0340, AP-0341, AP-0342, AP-0343
Place the sharpening stone on a dedicated holder or on a damp cloth to prevent slipping. The stone does not need to be soaked beforehand; however, it should be kept moist while sharpening. Sharpen the blades on the colored side of the stone.
The instructions apply to both double-bevel and single-bevel blades: Hold the knife as shown in Figure 1, keeping a consistent angle to the stone. As shown in Figure 2, position the knife so the angle between the blade edge and the stone is 45–60 degrees.
For double-bevel blades:
As shown in Figure 3, the distance between stone and spine should create an angle of approx. 15 degrees. Sharpen the knife by moving it along the full length of the stone back and forth with just enough pressure for your hand to rest lightly without pressing too hard. Once burrs appear on the opposite side of the edge (Figure 4), sharpen the other side the same way until burrs appear there as well.
For single-bevel blades: Sharpen the cutting edge on the front, convex side by placing the knife on the stone as shown in Figure 5. Then turn the knife over and sharpen the back by laying the entire backside flat on the stone, as in Figure 6. Then return to the convex side and place only the cutting edge on the stone. The edge angle to the stone should now be approx. 30–45 degrees to create a two‑stage bevel, which increases resistance to chipping.
For both double-bevel and single-bevel blades: Once burrs have formed across the entire cutting edge, spread an old newspaper or cloth on a flat surface and wipe both sides of the blade across it to remove the burrs. Alternatively, use a strop. If the surface of the sharpening stone has become uneven or clogged, or if sharpening performance declines, treat the stone surface with the included flattening stone. Wet both stones adequately.
Handling precautions
Models: AP-0304, AP-0305, AP-0316, AP-0331, AP-0332, AP-0333, AP-0334, DM-0400, DM-0708, WS-0800, WS-3000
Soak the sharpening stone in water until no air bubbles rise, and keep it wet while sharpening. Place the stone on a dedicated stand or damp cloth for stability.
Sujete el cuchillo tal y como se muestra en la Figura 1 maintaining a constant angle to the stone. As shown in Figure 2, position the blade so the angle between edge and stone is 45–60 degrees.
Double‑bevel blades: The angle between stone and blade should be approx. 15 degrees (Figure 3).
Single‑bevel blades: Place the blade on the stone as in (Figure 4).
Sharpen by moving the knife along the entire stone length back and forth with just enough pressure for your hand to rest lightly. When burrs form, sharpen the opposite side until burrs form there as well. For single‑bevel blades, the bevel angle is shown in Figure 5. Once burrs form on both sides, wipe the knife across newspaper to remove them.
For continued sharpening performance, use a flattening stone to flatten the surface.
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Copyright © 2026. KAI EUROPE GmbH. Todos los derechos reservados.
